Spring: document winter effects
- Compare ground-level photos with prior years
- Note displaced material, staining, gutters, downspouts, and roof-edge changes
- Record where ice, snow, or interior moisture appeared
- Schedule repairs that winter conditions prevented
- Review attic symptoms after thaw when accessible
Summer: complete planned work
- Address known leaks and flashing problems
- Coordinate chimney, skylight, solar, gutter, and roof work
- Review ventilation and moisture findings as a system
- Update roof records, warranties, and material information
- Plan replacement before late-season demand when practical
Fall: prepare drainage and access
- Clear or service drainage using appropriate access
- Check downspout discharge and winter icing locations
- Document overhanging or damaged tree conditions for a tree professional
- Review prior ice-dam or attic-frost evidence
- Confirm snow-shedding zones below metal roofs
Winter: observe rather than improvise
Record snow drifting, ice patterns, interior stains, attic frost, blocked drains, and temperature/weather timing without climbing onto the roof. Use qualified services for roof access, snow removal, electrical issues, structural questions, and water mitigation as their scopes require.
What to do, and when, in this climate
| Season | What to check | Why then |
|---|---|---|
| Early spring, after the thaw | Ceilings and attic for winter staining; ice-dam damage at eaves; displaced flashing; gutters full of grit | Winter damage is visible now and repairs can be scheduled before demand rises |
| Late spring | Moss and debris in valleys; overhanging branches; drip edge and gutter alignment | Growth is establishing, and cutting back branches now improves drying all year |
| Late summer | Roof covering condition from the ground; sealant at penetrations; skylight and chimney details | The best window to schedule non-urgent replacement before the autumn rush |
| Autumn, after leaf fall | Gutters and downspouts cleared; drains and scuppers on low-slope roofs; discharge points | A blocked gutter going into winter is a reliable route to ice at the eaves |
| Before the first hard freeze | Attic insulation depth and coverage at the eaves; soffit intake unobstructed; bath and kitchen fans discharging outside | This is what decides whether you get ice dams at all |
| After any significant storm | Ground-level check for displaced material, debris, and creased shingles; interior check | Damage documented near the event is far easier to claim than damage found later |
The one job that pays for itself
If you do only one thing on this list, do the pre-freeze attic check. Ice dams are caused by heat escaping into the attic, and every winter leak, every ruined ceiling, and every emergency steam-removal callout traces back to it. Confirming that the attic floor is sealed, that insulation reaches the eaves without blocking the soffit intake, and that bath and kitchen fans discharge outside the building addresses the cause rather than the symptom.
It is also the one item most likely to have been quietly broken by other work. Insulation added during an energy upgrade routinely blocks the soffit intake at the eaves, and a bath fan is frequently found terminating in the attic or into a soffit where its moist air is drawn straight back in.
- Attic floor air-sealed at penetrations, top plates, hatches and chases
- Baffles keeping an air path open where insulation meets the eave
- Soffit intake open and unobstructed along the whole eave
- Bath, kitchen and dryer exhausts terminating outside the building
- No frost, staining or damp insulation visible on a cold day
What to leave alone
Most roof maintenance advice on the internet assumes you will get on the roof. In this climate, and on most of these buildings, that is the wrong instinct. Walking a roof damages coverings — especially slate, cedar, and aged asphalt — and winter roof and ladder falls cause serious injuries every year in Vermont.
Nearly everything on this calendar can be done from the ground with binoculars, from inside the attic, or by a professional who is equipped for it. Raking the lowest few feet of snow from the ground is reasonable; climbing up to chip ice, pressure-wash moss, or inspect after a storm is not.
- Do not walk the roof to inspect it — use binoculars from the ground
- Do not chip, chisel or pressure-wash ice off a roof
- Do not pressure-wash moss from asphalt or cedar
- Do not use rock salt or general ice melt on roofing
- Do not climb a ladder onto a snow-covered or wet roof for any reason
Published August 13, 2026 and last reviewed August 16, 2026 by Greater Burlington Roofing. General roofing information; an on-site inspection is required for property-specific recommendations.